UPDATED: Repair of the Day, Black & Decker Belgian Waffle Maker on a 3D Printer

You might remember my post of April 12th, 2013 titled something like “repair of the Black and Decker Belgian Waffle maker“? It’s been my most popular post here at WordPress attracting a few views almost every single day since I posted it. I was quite proud of it too being able to not only showcase an elegant and inexpensive repair that just about anyone could do but selfishly I really enjoyed having that little machine working again.

1000453_WMB500_A_400

So here we are in 2017 and I’m going to revisit that repair with a new twist. I’ve purchased a 3D printer and started a user group to get my skills up for a big¬†project. machine for I’m searching out little projects around the house. So far I’ve made mostly handles and knobs to fix broken ones and I’ve created a couple of new items and even designed some upgrade parts for the 3D printer itself, which I’m told is a right of passage in the digital world. I’ve even made some YouTube videos of some of those parts and repairs.

DMS-DP5-200-200-270-Auto-leveling-3D-Printer-10-mins-install-24V-power-supply-metal

Now that’s a funny looking waffle maker

Now first thing I want to start with is if you’ve already done my first fix and it’s holding up for you then stop right here and go back to making waffles. I’ve taken apart my waffle maker and inspected the pieces and have found them to have held up perfectly and do not require replacement. It is nice to be able to pull the pins and give the hinge a good cleaning once and awhile as grease does build up in the recessed areas that you can’t normally clean but other than that there is no reason to replace them.

Okay I guess you haven’t done the previous repair or want to see what I’ve come up with in the wide world of science and over design. Let’s proceed. With the pins out and the area cleaned of grease and pancake batter we can make some measurements to aid in designing the new part. If you still have an old pin it is easy to measure the depth and width of the locking tabs otherwise the hinge needs to be separated enough to get a caliper in. I couldn’t find any of the old pins and had to do the latter.

I like to start with a sketch so when I sit down at the computer I can just get to work. The sketch is done first then the dimensions are filled in as I measure the part.

This part was modeled in Tinkercad, a free online 3D design tool that is great for simple parts like this.

Here is the part being printed.

And here is the finished product.

If you’re interested I’ve made the model available at Thingiverse¬†but you have to make sure you print this using a high temp filament because waffle irons get hot. If your printer can only print PLA then I recommend using my original method.

3D Printed Around the House

I bought my 3D printer to make parts for the CNC router I’m making, when I found out how expensive my local machine shop is to make parts I changed my focus and started to research 3D printers which I originally had little interest in. I’ve always had access to a machine shop and could make parts out of steel or use a mill and lathe to make what I needed but since I’ve moved I no longer have access to those tools.

20170320_113402

To get my skills up enough to make the machine parts I need I’ve decided I’ll make parts to fix things around the house, I’ve made brackets and knobs and a nice clip to hold the phone but today I needed to secure a patio door that had a broken latch. Last winter I found a bolt that fit and tightened it with a wrench but I had to leave the wrench hanging on the door incase I had to open it quickly.

rendered knob

My new plan was to create a knob that fits over a 3/8″ bolt that I could tighten by hand. Since it is only a single printed part of a simple enough shape I’ve decided to use Tinkercad to design this part.

alt text

The part needs no finishing after printing and fits tightly over the bolt. I use a heat gun to press the bolt in which locks the part on like glue

finished knob

I’m happy with the results,

Door 1

and so happy that I’m made another knob to fix a different door. The second knob is slightly different because there is less clearance and the knob comes near the jam at a small angle requiring that the edges be recessed, I think it also makes the part better looking.

Door 2

Here’s a view into how the part was designed in Tinkercad.

Of course I could have gone out to Lowes and picked up a plastic knob that was close enough then picked up the hardware to make whatever knob they had work which I figure would have costs ten bucks and would have taken less time but all I would have learned would be what parts my local Lowes has in stock.